5. Weird things about Italy

Gracciano dell’Elsa to Monteriggioni

As I write this I am asking myself why yet again there is only one pillow on my bed. Isn’t it interesting the things that are so different in different cultures? In Australia we drown under a tsunami of pillows and cushions in most hotel rooms. It’s almost as if too many are still not enough. So far in Italy we have had one hotel with more than a single, very thin pillow. ’Harden up’ you say, and you’d be correct. And yes I can ask for another, but it’s a good example of surprising differences.

Another one for those of you whose Italian is rudimentary. A cafe is where you get beer but often coffee as well, a bar is where you get coffee as well as often an amazing range of alcohol and often the two are combined. I hope that has saved you future surprise or disappointment :) Also, fun fact. If you order a coffee and stand at the bar/counter and drink it it costs several euro less than if you sit down.

If you show up for dinner at 7pm expect to be lonely as that is very early here and you’re likely to have the place to yourself or with other pilgrims who are also exhausted . In fact most places don’t open until then or later. Also expect tables of families with the full range of grandmas to teenagers to babies. It’s one of the most delightful things about this country: the family unit is so strong. It’s not unusual to see babies and toddlers out and about with their parents at 10pm. None of them being entertained by devices.

We had a lovely easy day today. The walk from Gracciano dell’Elsa to our hotel was a mere 12 km through beautiful countryside. We had our first rain so pulled on our stylish ponchos. The types of forest we passed through and the crops being grown were all different to yesterday’s so the overall palette changed. No nasty hills and generally smooth paths. A couple of interesting old buildings to explore and a monastery. This easy day was good timing as Grant’s knee is making him very uncomfortable and I was up a lot of the night with a post viral gastro. Fun times! Our hotel is at the bottom of the hill from Monteriggioni and we have decided to leave that climb until the morning and take some rest. Sadly we missed our Port Macquarie friends Gillian and Graham who passed through just before us.

Despite our physical woes we are in good spirits and still loving this journey. We will love it even more when we are back to our normal selves.

Before I sign off today I need to add to the food theme of yesterday. I forgot breakfast and lunch! This is because all the places we are staying in provide breakfast, and they are excellent. The only things that appear that are not what you would normally expect in a hotel buffet are the wonderful cakes and tarts! Yes, cake is a breakfast meal here and I’m all for it. Lunch we are on the road and mostly just eat fruit, but if we pass through a town then the panninis are the go.

There have been requests re feedback on Italian beers. Grant says ‘They are as good as the German wine.’ I will leave that there…

My observation is that there are fewer on tap, fewer microbrewery offerings than Australia and the alcohol content is way higher. That being said I have enjoyed those I’ve had (but after 21km that may not be a quality judgement). Cocktails are a big thing here, with Aperol Spritz’ and Negronis coming in strong as #1 so far on the tables I’ve observed.

Might go try one now in fact. Chat to you tomorrow. It’s another big day, over 20km to Sienna. We have TWO nights there, I know Sue.

Here is Monteriggioni as we approached it this morning. Love Marie