Campagnano di Roma to Isola Farnese +++
I would like to take strong issue with whoever described today as ‘quite flat with dirt roads or country trails with just some hill in the final part.’ They clearly were thinking of another section entirely as we encountered more hills today than we have for most of the walk. My phone tells me I have climbed 41 flights of stairs and walked almost 27km. The only consistently flat section was a hair raising 5km along the via Cassia at the end of the day, leaping out of the way of on coming traffic and then having to sprint across four lanes of
the highway when our ‘footpath’ literally disappeared. Judging by the shuffling gait and wild eyed expressions on the faces of the other pilgrims arriving at our hotel this evening, we were not alone. So if you’re doing this leg, and particularly if you’re staying on the far side of town, be prepared for a big day. The bar will be having a big night tonight.
It sounds like I’m having a moan, but actually it was still a good day. We started off walking through a stunningly beautiful area poised on the edge of the volcanic plateau that we have been walking across for the last week. It seems to be the summer retreat for rich people from Rome as the homes were huge and old and the gardens vast and manicured with towering trees and long driveways leading into mystery.
We then descended forever - it must have been hundreds of metres- down off the plateau and into farmland and scattered estates. There were some good views as we descended and at the bottom there was a way-stone (above) letting us know it was 37km to Rome. It’s considerably less now. What an odd thought…We passed through country full of Roman history and archaeological digs, came across our first cattle (they don’t de-horn them), followed a fast flowing river and slipped our way up and down a roller coaster of muddy hills surrounded by more glorious fields of wild flowers until we reached Isola Farnese and its companion town of La Storta. Sandy Brown, in his via Francigena guide book describes both towns with little enthusiasm and I see where he is coming from. Basically we are now in Rome‘s outer suburbs and the magic of the time warp we have been in for the last three weeks is coming to an end, as it must.
I will leave my deeper reflections on this trip tomorrow when we finish, but I did make a point of farewelling the fields of wildflowers and the beautiful song birds today. They were in very good voice, so it was a great last day with them. I have also started preparing myself for the end of this journey as it will be quite a lot to process, no longer being on the road. At the moment just getting off my bed seems challenge enough!
I will leave you with a last look at the fields and the fencing that seems particular to this area. Tomorrow, Rome. I’m jumping off the via Francigena and hopping across to the start of the Appia Antica, which is the old Roman road into Rome. It’s the same distance walking as the VF but much more beautiful. Grant at this stage is planning to walk the VF and so we will arrive in Rome at St Peter’s from different directions, but that is kind of a good sign. It means we are learning to be two whole, separate people who don’t have to be tied at the hip. We will meet and share our different journeys and I hope that is a sign for the future.
Love Marie
