10. Half way?

Buonconvento to San Quirico d’Orcia

I have found my new most favourite Italian town. San Quirico d’Orcia is a tiny medieval town perched on top of a tall hill with sweeping views across the Val d’Orcia. Its buildings are beautifully preserved and maintained, with a central street lined with cafes, bars, quirky shops and restaurants. Very few overseas tourists other than those also on pilgrimage, easily identifiable by our daggy clothes and slight hobbles.

We arrived here yesterday afternoon after a stunning walk from Buonconvento. The first half takes you up slopes past beautiful wine farms with manicured gardens surrounded by fields of vines. Val d’Arbia is mostly a white wine growing area - the Val d’Arbia wine is a blend and sometimes described as a white Chianti. There are also some excellent red wines grown nearby in Montalcino, based on the Sangiovese grape. It is called Brunello and I recommend you track it down. It does need a bit of age on it. Our path meandered through both these regions before a big drop down into the valley below San Quirico and then a big climb up into the town. It was a very hot day and by the time we arrived I looked like the figure on the right on the way stone in the first picture :) The saving grace in the heat was well placed pilgrim rest stops which had potable water, a tree and something to sit on. These have been a surprising and delightful part of the walk as they are usually quirky and welcoming. Here’s one from yesterday.

Sosta Sigerico means Sigeric Stop, named after the archbishop Sigeric who first mapped out the pilgrimage in the Middle Ages.

We have a rest day here today which I am delighted about as it will give me time to enjoy this town. I intend to sit at a cafe and watch the world go by. It is Sunday so the bells are ringing and it’s quiet and slow.

We are half way to Rome in number of days and almost half way in distance! Despite both of us being ill for a few days we are surprised how quickly this time has gone. We are both well now, no blisters and no aches so looking forward to the rest of the journey.

I had a big revelation yesterday on my walk (wondering part). I realise I have been feeling low and empty for several years now. I can see it now because I suddenly feel alive again. I don’t think I am alone in finding myself quite lost after my children left home. I filled that with work and study, but then I retired and the hole was back. I’d done a PhD, planning to be an academic, but my areas of study - choirs and lullabies- were both shut down by COVID. That is when I first booked this trip (for two years ago). I realise now I was running away from the emptiness. COVID meant the trip was delayed by two years and that was a good thing as instead of running away I’m here with my partner and we are healing/growing together.

I chose Italy for a reason. There is no other country I know that is so alive. People talk loudly and passionately. They touch, they gesticulate, they love their families and show it without reserve. They love art, music, food, wine, negronis, fashion and beauty in all its forms. There is warmth, earthiness, but also a sophistication that comes from centuries of identity. I have been reminded again of the richness and joy that is life. Walking slowly and being open to every experience along the way has been more rewarding and enriching that I had even hoped for. Writing about it each day to you has been a surprising joy.

Here is a photo from San Quirico last night so you can get a sense of it. We have a short walk tomorrow via a town with hot springs so I will speak to you again then.

love Marie